Frommer's Vietnam by Ron Emmons

Author:Ron Emmons
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Wiley
Published: 2012-01-06T00:00:00+00:00

Buon Ma Thuot

350km (217 miles) N of Ho Chi Minh City; 200km (124 miles) N of Dalat; 200km (124 miles) S of Pleiku; 180km (112 miles) W of Nha Trang

There isn’t much to this little provincial capital unless you’re a coffee lover, in which case a visit here is something of a pilgrimage, as this is the heartland of Vietnam’s huge coffee industry. Otherwise, it’s just a maze of busy streets surrounding the center Thang Loi (Victory) Monument, with its high arch and a statue of the first tank to enter the town during liberation in 1975. Services in Buon Ma Thuot are basic, and the few hotels that exist cater mostly to local coffee growers’ expat managers and folks visiting the highlands on agricultural aid projects. The sleepy town has a few beat up old museums hardly worth seeing, but Buon Ma Thuot is a good base for day trips out into the broad-reaching hill areas. Rolling hills covered with the ordered striations of row upon row of coffee plants bring you to far-flung ethnic minority villages of the E De and the M’nong people. You can organize all kinds of trekking and tours in town that include canoeing, hiking, and elephant riding, as well as some great options for overnights and homestays in rural villages, or visit Yok Don National Park just north of town. You can also visit a working coffee plantation. In town, expect little more than local souvenir shopping, mostly for good, fresh coffee and jars of locally brewed whiskey in fired pots of the M’nong people.

Note: This part of the highlands was more or less “off the map” for tourism until recent years, not for want of sights or natural beauty, but because of poor relations between the Vietnamese government and the local ethnic minority groups. The local cadres are really pretty relentless, and independent travel in the region is still not permitted. I met a young traveler putt-putting alone around the region on a rented motorbike out of Ho Chi Minh City; for his troubles, he was made persona non grata in the provinces of Gia Lai and Dak Lak, and the poor guy had to endure lengthy interviews with an irate party cadre before being sent packing. Be sure to arrange a guide to accompany you on any out-of-town exploration.

Getting There

By Plane There are direct connections between Buon Ma Thuot and Ho Chi Minh City, and Buon Ma Thuot and Danang. The airport in Buon Ma Thuot is 10km (6 1/4 miles) from the town center. The office of Vietnam Airlines is at 19 Ama Trang Long St. ( 0500/395-4442). Flight schedules vary, and you should book your flights to and from here in advance (possible from any Vietnam Airlines office countrywide).

By Car/Motorbike Probably the best way to arrange transport to Buon Ma Thuot is to hire a car and driver, preferably one who speaks English. The town is a popular stop for the many adventurous travelers who saddle up on a motorbike with one of the highland area’s Easy Riders.

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